Exfoliation has become a bit of a skincare buzzword — and for good reason. When done right, it can leave your skin smoother, brighter, and more even-toned. But done wrong? It can trigger breakouts, redness, sensitivity, and long-term damage that’s hard to undo.
If you’re not sure how to exfoliate (or whether you should), this guide is for you.
First: What is exfoliation?
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. Your skin naturally sheds these cells every 28–40 days, depending on your age, hormones, and health — but things like stress, cold weather, or incorrect skincare can slow that process down.
When dead skin cells pile up, it can cause:
- Dullness
- Breakouts
- Flaky or rough patches
- Uneven tone or texture
- Makeup sitting weirdly on your face
By exfoliating regularly, you’re helping your skin do what it’s naturally trying to do — just a little better.
Physical vs. Chemical Exfoliation: What’s the difference?
There are two main types of exfoliators:
1. Physical exfoliants
These use small particles, beads, or tools to manually scrub away dead skin.
Examples:
- Face scrubs with sugar, salt, or jojoba beads
- Washcloths or cleansing brushes
- Microdermabrasion treatments
✅ Pros: Instantly smoother-feeling skin
❌ Cons: Easy to overdo, especially if the grains are rough (think apricot scrubs from the 2000s — ouch). Often unsuitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin.
2. Chemical exfoliants
These use ingredients that dissolve or loosen the bonds between dead skin cells.
Examples:
- AHAs (like glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid)
- BHAs (like salicylic acid)
- PHAs (a gentler option, like gluconolactone)
✅ Pros: More even exfoliation, can target deeper skin issues like acne or pigmentation, often better for sensitive or ageing skin
❌ Cons: Can still cause irritation if overused or combined with the wrong products
What type of exfoliation is right for your skin?
If you have dry or dull skin
Look for a gentle AHA, like lactic acid. It hydrates while exfoliating and is ideal for reviving glow without drying you out.
If you have oily or acne-prone skin
Try salicylic acid (BHA) — it’s oil-soluble, so it can dive deep into pores to clear congestion and reduce inflammation.
If you have sensitive or rosacea-prone skin
Avoid scrubs. Go for PHAs like gluconolactone or lactobionic acid — they exfoliate more slowly and are often paired with soothing ingredients.
If you’re dealing with pigmentation or uneven tone
Glycolic acid is your friend — but ease into it. It has the smallest molecular size of the AHAs, so it penetrates deeply, but it can also cause sensitivity if overused.
How often should you exfoliate?
This depends on your skin type and the type of exfoliator you’re using.
Important: More is not better. Over-exfoliation is one of the most common causes of skin barrier damage. If your skin starts stinging, flaking, or looking red and shiny, it’s time to pull back and let it heal.
What not to mix with exfoliants
Using too many active ingredients at once can lead to irritation, breakouts, or compromised skin. Here’s what to watch for:
🚫 Don’t mix scids with retinoids — unless directed by a professional
🚫 Avoid exfoliating after microneedling, waxing, or shaving
🚫 Don’t pair strong exfoliants with vitamin C — unless you’re used to it
🚫 Don’t exfoliate broken or sunburnt skin
What to do after exfoliating
- Hydrate: Use a nourishing serum or moisturiser — ideally with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, panthenol, or ceramides
- Protect: Your skin is more vulnerable after exfoliation, so always follow up with SPF the next morning (even if you exfoliated at night)
Still unsure? Listen to your skin.
If your skin feels soft, smooth, and calm after exfoliating, you’re probably doing it right.
If it feels tight, tingly, or inflamed — or starts breaking out more — it’s time to rethink your routine. Take a break, simplify, and when in doubt, speak to a skincare professional.
A Final Word: Exfoliation Should Be Supportive, Not Punishing
It’s easy to fall into the trap of overdoing it. Scrubbing too hard, chasing quick fixes, or layering actives thinking it’ll speed up results.
But skin doesn’t work that way.
Healthy skin needs rhythm, consistency, and care — not shock therapy.
Want help finding the right exfoliant for your skin?
If you’re unsure what your skin needs, or you’ve been burned (literally or figuratively) by exfoliants in the past, let’s chat.
Our free skin consultations give you clarity, guidance, and a skincare plan that works with your skin — not against it.
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